Everyone loves surprises. If someone says they don’t, they just haven’t had one worthy of the admission. If you fancy testing out the theory, you’re onto a winner at Indigo. It has a fine showcase of seasonal British ingredients and it’s housed in a damn fine Edwardian building in the centre of London. But the astonishing revelation, after devouring the food, naturally? The menu is entirely gluten and dairy-free. Who would have thought it? But yes, it has been stealthily cut out of everything from the beer-battered fish and chips to the Amedei chocolate mousse without a dent in the flavour stakes. Impressive.
Indigo, One Aldwych, Covent Garden, London WC2B 4BZ. onealdwych.com