Swish new Mayfair bar and restaurant Sackville’s opens with a fine truffle and beef showcase.
This isn’t a place you’ll forget any time soon, for if your thoughts thereafter regularly turn to whether a dish, any dish, could be enhanced with a bit of truffle, then Sackville’s has successfully imprinted its ethos of easy indulgence into your being. This very thought ruminated in our minds as we watched some black truffle being mandolined into what was already a damn fine martini at our table.
The display of decadence is a thread that runs through all that Sackville’s is, from the sumptuous teal velvet banquettes and heavy marble tables, to the marvellous cuts of beef and obligatory inclusion of truffle at every possible turn. The small, open kitchen at the end of the restaurant, which has space for four, feels intimate and offers a fascinating glimpse into what goes on behind the scenes, that’s if you can if you can handle the heat. Whilst the exterior is admirably discreet, the dark industrial but highly polished, 60s-feel interiors is exceedingly handsome, as though it has come dressed to kill, which is just as well as the restaurant’s previous occupant was that of a tailor’s.
In a nod to this sartorial history, wonderfully whipped-up cocktails such as ‘Dressed Up With Nowhere To Go’ (Havana Club 3-Year Old rum, Dubonnet, raspberry, mandarin, lime – £12) and ‘Pink Cashmere’ (Tanqueray gin, Aperol, Cocchi Americano, apple, lemon, vanilla, Campari – £13) feature on the drinks list.
The food menu, however, gets straight down to business and it is here where you’ll find that the truffle is pretty much inescapable but where it’s included, it works. Take the heart-warming Truffle Hunt (£11) for starters which combines marinated mushrooms, truffle salami and a happy helping of truffle dust – the tastiest concoction to have come from the ground. The quality of the beef, which the restaurant prides itself on, can be tasted from the outset with the chunky Angus tartar (£12) with foie gras mousse.
With the mains, we categorically implore you to zone-in on the burgers despite the insanely excessive price tag – this is, after all, a restaurant whose concept thrives on excess. Two of the tastiest burgers we can care to remember are to be found here and the discovery of both under one roof means that our search for the best burgers in London has planted its stake firmly at Sackville’s.
Just when we thought The Fat Pat (£34) may be the most wondrous smoky meat-in-a-bun creation ever, with two enormously juicy wagyu and Angus patties along with pancetta, Emmental cheese and tomato relish, along comes The Sackville (£38) which really is the best of both worlds if you’re undecided about choosing a burger or steak. This magnificent beast sandwiches the heart of a wagyu rib-eye steak, the most tender section, between dollops of truffle mayo and a foie gras-buttered brioche bun. Oh, and it’s topped off with a slice of truffle for good measure. Yes, it’s ostentatious, in flavour and in cost, but it’s oh-so-sensational.
Burger-mania, albeit of a different kind, continues into the desserts with the highlight being the chocolate fondant burger (£8) – a warm, chocolate-oozing fondant sandwiched between a vanilla and sunflower seed maracon top and base. There’s also a booze-infused tequila lime pie which is a little lighter and not too tart, plus it serves as an excellent celebratory treat for what on the whole is a pretty special discovery.
Sackville’s, 8a Sackville Street, Mayfair, London W1S 3DF. sackvilleslondon.com